Paddling Canada’s whitewater wonders

Blackness surrounds Mark Kelly as water rushes ferociously around him.

Upside down in his kayak, he struggles to become free of a hole he was sucked into after going down a drop called “The Aqua Lung” on Norrish Creek in British Columbia.

But his boat is silent. It is the most silent his kayak has ever been. Even with the raging river slamming and roaring around him, his boat stays immobile. He doesn’t want to leave his kayak behind, but he needs to break free -— and soon. 

He unwillingly releases himself and comes up to the surface. The wrath of the river overtakes him and he plunges into the depths of the dark water. Staying calm, he heaves himself back up to the surface and swims to the shore. “It’s part of the head game: Don’t panic,” says Kelly, a whitewater kayaking enthusiast. 

Ten years ago he started off sea kayaking and later experienced the thrill and challenge of whitewater. Now an experienced kayaker, he seeks out rapids of all classes.

He embarks on rivers exclusively for river running and playboating, which are types of whitewater kayaking. River running can be thought of as a tour down a river. You are able to enjoy the scenery as well as experience a whitewater challenge. Playboating or freestyling is more of a gymnastic and artistic kind of kayaking. They usually stay in one spot where they work with and against the dynamic forces of the river to perform a variety of tricks. 

Kelly, also the product manager for Mountain Equipment Co-op, reveals to Lifestylethe best all-class rivers that have both river running and playboat kayaking in 
Canada. 

The Perfect Wave
British Columbia has hundreds of rivers and unique tidal rapids for the thrill-seeking whitewater adventurer. But there is one place called Skookumchuck Narrows, which is known to every kayaker who rides it as theplace that has the perfect wave. 

Just north of Vancouver, it forms the entrance of the Sechelt Inlet to the Jervis Inlet. Together, the Narrows and the Inlet’s tidal flow must pass through the Sechelt Rapids where the perfect wave takes shape. 

Every day the tides force 200 billion gallons of seawater on a three-metre tide through the narrows. With current speeds that exceed 16 knots (30 km/h), it is claimed to be one of the fastest and most turbulent tidal rapids in the world, which is ideal for both river runners and freestylers. 

The spectacular whirlpools, consistent and thrilling rapids, stunning scenery and sea life make Skookumchuck the destination for extreme kayakers from all over Canada and across the world. “Skookumchuck is so great because it’s so perfect,” says Kelly. “It is the perfect wave in some ways as it just gets really glassy and then you can see all the kelp and fish swimming underneath you.”

The International Scale of River Difficulty

Class 1: Easy — Small waves and no serious obstacles.

Class 2: Novice — Rapids are moderately difficult, require some experience.

Class 3: Intermediate — Rapids with moderate, irregular waves, strong currents.

Complex manoeuvres in fast current that requires good paddling experience.

Class 4: Advanced — Long rapids, high, unavoidable waves and holes, dangerous rocks. Scouting is mandatory, and powerful and precise manoeuvring required of the advanced paddler.

Class 5: Expert — Violent rapids, congested chutes, steep drops, unavoidable waves, complex and demanding routes. Scouting is mandatory, high level of fitness required and bodily risk warnings.

Class 6: Extreme — These rapids are rarely attempted because they’re extremely dangerous and unpredictable. The consequences of errors are very severe and rescue may be impossible.

Freestyling your Experience 
The beauty of the Ottawa River is its size. The second longest river in Canada — approximately 1,271 kilometres in length — boasts to be the top whitewater kayaking destination in Canada for the past 25 years. 

“B.C. rivers are fun but they’re shallow, creeky and cold,” says Kelly. “Ottawa is awesome because the water is warm and deep. It’s as forgiving as you can get.”

The Ottawa is arguably the best top freestyle kayak river with its two channels: The Main Channel is a big water run where experienced kayakers paddle through towering waves and turbulent rapids doing impressive tricks, while the Middle Channel is extremely technical. Experienced kayakers have to zigzag through knotty rapids, waterfalls and impressive rock formations.

“It’s not so much of a physical than a mental game, especially if you’re on a Class 4 or 5 and you’re trying to stick to your route, but it changes because you caught a wave or hole,” says Kelly. “You have to keep your head together.”

As one of the best whitewater rivers in Canada, the Ottawa is always packed with thrill-seeking kayakers and rafters, he adds. It’s a very social river, so the solitude some kayakers might seek is something the Ottawa may not provide. 


Exploring Solitude and Adventure
Quebec is full of remote whitewater rivers and in the past year it has become really exploratory for avid whitewater kayakers. 

“There are big rivers, giant rivers, like the Ottawa, but with less people,” says Kelly. The Gatineau River runs along western Quebec and flows to the south to join the Ottawa River. 

It is in the Upper Gatineau area where kayakers seek river running and freestyling waves. It was rediscovered in 1997 by canoers and is increasingly becoming well-known amongst the whitewater community. 

Dangerous dams and roaring rapids provoke expert kayakers to pull out their best paddling and manoeuvring skills. This stretch of river runs wild with big, Ottawa River-
style rapids — but without all the commotion. Look for moose and bears, and bask in the river’s extraordinary solitude.


Paddling in Reverse 
The water is deceiving and dangerous at Reversing Falls in Saint John, N.B. While this water is not for everyone — paddling fanatics can rejoice. In most rivers, the water typically flows between 3,000 and 9,000 cubic feet per second. In contrast, the water at Reversing Falls thunders through in excess of 100,000 cubic feet per second.

It is a series of whirlpools and rapids from the Saint John River, which runs through a narrow gorge and empties into the Bay of Fundy, where the highest tides can be found. Because of the incoming and outgoing tides, more whitewater enthusiasts are visiting Reversing Falls, challenging themselves to the rapid’s constantly changing formation with the direction of the tides. 

Kelly says, “It’s becoming more and more popular because the tides come in really fast, which makes great, massive rapids and powerful whirlpools.” Numerous whitewater enthusiasts are embracing this natural wonder by kayaking over the rapids and doing cartwheels with their boats on the tide’s constantly changing direction.


Photos by Benjamin DiVito