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British Columbia’s best bites

From lavish dining rooms to hidden, quaint gems, this province offers something for everyone


By Melissa Silva | February 2, 2011


Food may not be first on the mind when living in or visiting beautiful British Columbia. However, when you’re not skiing, snowboarding, or taking in the exquisite and often majestic flora and fauna, you may want to explore the culinary creations of Canada’s westernmost province. From a patisserie to a Chinese brasserie, a tasting room to a seafood café and raw bar, the options for top dining — or sampling — experiences are endless, and so are the flavours.


Blue Water Café and Raw Bar
1095 Hamilton St. (at Helmcken in Yaletown), Vancouver


Hailed as Vancouver’s definitive destination for seafood, Blue Water Café and Raw Bar is housed in a striking old brick and beam warehouse in the heart of historic Yaletown. Blue Water’s executive chef Frank Pabst serves up innovative and impeccably executed West Coast dishes, and insists on using seafood from wild and sustainable harvest. The restaurant’s dynamic dining room provides diners with a view of the opposing “East meets West” kitchen and raw bar, which consists of ringside seats allowing for an up-close-and-personal dining experience. Guests will watch as skilled sushi chefs jubilantly create contemporary Japanese dishes using local ingredients, such as Dungeness crab and wild sockeye salmon.

The sweeping main bar leads out to the heated patio, where guests can enjoy an inspired and diverse cocktail menu consisting of rare cognacs and tequilas, as well as over 100 single malt whiskeys. The private wine room holds an extensive award-winning wine and bubbly selection, offering over 20 wines, and an array of iced vodkas, chilled sakes, and premium draft and bottled beers. Located near Vancouver’s entertainment district, Blue Water Café and Raw Bar serves as an ideal place not only for seafood, but also to meet before and after the theatre, shows, concerts, hockey games and other events.


Chambar
562 Beatty St., Vancouver


Promising an evening where visitors can experience an “unpretentious fling with fine dining,” Vancouver’s Chambar brings something refreshing — literally and figuratively — to the table. From being socially conscious by donating dining proceeds to individuals living with AIDS, to using only sustainable food sources, Chambar is truly a breath of fresh air. With the restaurant’s name in French loosely translating to mean “When the teacher leaves the room, all the kids go crazy,” Chambar offers a wild, ingenious pairing of Belgium and North African cuisine, perfect for those with restless palates. Using local, organic ingredients, Chambar’s menu consists of tantalizing dishes, including an array of appetizers, and main courses of duck, lamb, venison and sustainably caught fish. Nestled in a brick and beam building, Chambar’s ambiance combines Italian design accents with an eclectic rotating art collection, complete with beautiful hardwood flooring. Located at the front of the restaurant is Chambar’s long paralam bar, which delivers an award-winning cocktail list, including drinks created with local fruit. Owned and operated by a husband-and-wife team — executive chef Nico Schuermans and Karri Schuermans — Chambar is certified as a “green restaurant” and serves only sustainably harvested seafood through the Ocean Wise program, and is also working towards being Vancouver’s first carbon-neutral restaurant. If visiting this environmentally and socially responsible restaurant wasn’t enough, Chambar also offers cooking classes as part of their Dirty Apron Cooking School and Shop, allowing food enthusiasts to not only come to eat their favourite dish, but learn to make it too.


Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie
163 Keefer St., Vancouver


With its name referring to a Chinese term of endearment, translating to mean “precious” in English, this restaurant is a true gem. Located around the corner from Main Street in Vancouver’s Chinatown, this modern Shanghainese/Taiwanese eatery appears to be a homage to owner Tannis Ling’s parents, with black-and-white family photos adorning the restaurant’s walls and many of the dishes on the menu being slightly tweaked adaptations of Ling’s mother’s traditional Taiwanese recipes. Seating only 50 at capacity, this quaint restaurant is decorated with an ingenious juxtaposition of modern aesthetics — a row of white-painted chef’s knives on a white-painted wall — and antique allure — collections of antique mirrors, framed needlepoint embroidery and even vintage nude pinups in the washrooms. Reminiscent of a Victorian parlour, Bao Bei offers plush armchairs and oriental carpets, a welcoming warm alternative to larger, more elaborate eateries.  

Serving a blend of Shanghainese, Taiwanese and Vietnamese dishes with a French influence, by half-Japanese, half-French chef Joel Watanabe, Bao Bei uses high-quality free-range meats, organic produce and fresh house-made condiments. Watanabe even spent time cooking with Ling’s mother, as well as nine days in Taipei with the Ling family, and learned to make wonton wrappers among other dishes. With almost everything made in-house, this shared-plate haven offering “petits plats Chinois” (Chinese small plates) may appear small in some respects, but it definitely packs a whole lot of precious in every bite.


Salt Tasting Room 
45 Blood Alley, Vancouver

A tasting room specializing in artisanal cheeses, small-batch cured meats, and a dynamic array of wines, beers and sherries, Salt brings a different dining experience to the table . Salt’s simplistic approach to good food is not what you’d expect: Guests assemble a tasting plate from Salt’s chalkboard, which displays a selection of 10 cheeses, 10 meats and 10 condiments. With their cheese, meat and condiment selection constantly changing, it is literally impossible to have the same tasting experience twice. Maintaining close relationships with local charcuterie producers, including Oyama Sausage Co., J N & Z Deli, and Moccia’s, Salt is proud to source from local suppliers. When it comes to cheese, Salt offers a diverse selection of local and imported cheeses, from Neal’s Yard in London, and producers like Moonstruck Organic Cheese on Salt Spring Island and Farm House Natural Cheeses in Agassiz, to name a few. With condiments like Guinness grainy mustard, honeycomb from Similkameen Apiary, Mediterranean olives, and Spanish Marcona almonds, guests may forget all about traditional set-plate restaurant offerings.

Salt offers a varying selection of pates and terrines, as well as hearty soups, seasonal salads and an array of grilled sandwiches served at lunch, not to mention dozens of wines, beer, ports and sherries. And if the tasting wasn’t enough, below the tasting room is Salt’s Salt Cellar. Used for private functions from birthdays to fashion shows, The Salt Cellar is just another reason why Salt Tasting Room is a restaurant flavour that need not be overlooked.


Sweet Revenge Patisserie
4160 Main St., Vancouver


In longing for the days when “desserts were crafted and savoured, rather than manufactured and mass-consumed,” Sweet Revenge Patisserie in Vancouver is devoted to serving an alternative to factory-produced “cakes” laden with shortening, chemicals and preservatives. As a return to simpler times, Sweet Revenge serves old-fashioned, homemade desserts, pies and pastries “just like grandma used to bake.” Using only real butter, organic flour and organic free-range eggs, Sweet Revenge proudly refuses to use shortening, margarine, lard or preservatives. Even the ambiance oozes wholesome goodness, with lush red wallpapers, oil lamps, antique furniture and softwood floors.

After guests savour carefully prepared desserts made with fresh ingredients and ample affection — such as the Berry Trifle, a traditional English dessert with homemade sponge cake soaked in Grand Marnier, vanilla custard and berry coulis, adorned with fresh berries and topped with real whipped cream — store-bought goodies will become a thing of the past. The nostalgia for more wholesome times continues with music ranging from Billie Holiday to Edith Piaf and Johnny Hartman playing throughout the Patisserie, accompanying each visitor’s decadent bite.



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