On a
spring day in the late 17th century, the Abbey of Hautvillers stands upon an ancient vine-covered slope
overlooking the Champagne countryside in northern France. Inside, cellar master Dom Pierre Pérignon, a
Benedictine monk, raises a glass to the window’s light and contemplates the golden wine within.
Pérignon observes the threads of tiny bubbles ascending from the bottom of the glass, the exhilarated beads
swirling and racing to the surface, where they dance and froth. The good father brings the glass near and
inhales. Aromas of fresh-baked bread, walnuts, citrus and violets delight his nose. He takes a drink, smiles
and proclaims, “I am drinking stars!”
Champagne is France’s coldest wine-growing region, where wines made after the harvest often stop fermenting
and lay dormant during winter. A secondary fermentation occurs when the wine begins to “work” as the days
warm with spring, creating the natural byproduct of carbonic gas. When allowed to ferment inside a cask or a
vat, the gas dissipates into the air. But if the wine is secured in a bottle before the second fermentation
starts, the gas is trapped and remains dissolved in the liquid, imprisoned by glass, cork and wire cage.
Today sparkling wines are made worldwide. British Columbia is a recent producer, yet wineries here are making
some outstanding bubbly. Hardly surprising, since the Okanagan region is the northernmost desert viticulture
region in the world. Situated along the 50th parallel, it shares the same latitude as Champagne, France. The
Okanagan’s long, hot autumn days mature and sweeten the grapes, while the dramatic temperature drop overnight
promotes a slow loss of acidity. This combination of high sugar content, good acidity and intense grape
varietal character produces fine and complex champagne-style wines.
The first champagne maker in B.C., Summerhill Estate Winery, introduced its Cipes Brut in the fall of 1992.
Owner Stephen Cipes is an eclectic iconoclast, passionate about producing world-class sparkling wines.
Summerhill’s grapes are organically grown, and the wines are handcrafted and cellared in a four-storey, 3,249
sq. ft. reproduction of a Cheops pyramid.
Why? Cipes feels the geometry of the pyramid cellar produces the same energy as the ancient Roman arch
cellars and vaults found in the finest champagne houses of Europe. “We know that there is a correlation
between sacred geometry and liquids,” says Cipes. “I am convinced, after many taste comparisons, that the
pyramid aging process has a positive and beneficial effect on the wine’s flavours when compared to the wine
not aged in the pyramid.”
Unorthodox or not, you can’t argue with success. In 2000, Cipes entered one of his sparkling wines in
France’s Chardonnay du Monde competition. More than 30 countries participated; of five gold medals awarded,
four went to French entries and the fifth went to Summerhill’s Gabriel.
Definitely a food wine, sparklers are so food-friendly they can actually be enjoyed throughout an entire
meal, from appetizer to dessert. Champagne is also meant to be enjoyed young. Over time it loses sparkle, so
cellaring it doesn’t make sense.
Champagnes are best enjoyed from a flute or tulip glass — a coupe (or shallow, saucer-shaped glass) allows
the precious bubbles to dissipate too fast. And always take great care when opening; there’s tremendous
pressure behind that cork, so point the bottle away from your guests! •
