The Return of the Ascot

Although it's difficult to imagine the days without T-shirts and jeans, there was once a time when neckties and three-piece suits were considered casual daywear. Although several variations of neckties such as bowties, cravats and continental ties were worn during this era, it was the ascot that was the most popular during the early to mid-20th century.  

The ascot, often called a cravat, has a narrow neckband, which extends to wide wings. It can be worn tucked into a dress shirt or tied around the collars of a shirt with the wings tucked into the vest of a three-piece suit. Just like how modern-day ties come with accessories such as tie clips and pins, the ascot can also be held into place using stickpins or tie racks that are inserted into the middle of the wings just below the neck.  

The ascot's loose fit around the neck historically serves as a casual look worn during daytime events such as luncheons, morning events and day weddings. Traditionally, they were made in black or grey patterned silk, paired with pinstripe trousers and cutaway morning coats. The silk was thick and woven, much like today's ties.  

However, the role of the ascot has now reversed and is often misinterpreted. Many fashion websites and trend guides suggest that men wear ascots at very formal occasions such as black tie events and weddings. But they were originally meant to replace bowties for a more causal look, not the other way around. In Britain, men would often wear ascots to Sunday brunch and to run errands around the city.  

Then came the First World War, which changed fashion forever, and clothing was made out of whatever fabric was available.  Following the Great Depression came the jean era, where unisex clothing revolutionized the youth culture, as for the first time jeans put men and women in the same attire. The fashion world continued to spiral down a more casual road with the late 1980s, which brought arm-baring tops, acid wash jeans, colourful sneakers and jean jackets to celebrity culture.  

But come 2003, everything changed. Designers looked back at the early 20th century for inspiration and began creating collections that featured trousers for him and her, blazers meant to worn outside of the office and a conservative, elegant style that truly reflected the historic era. Today, the 1920s and 1930s influence is still evident on the international runways, and doesn't seem to be going anywhere.  

The ascot has once again become an emerging trend amongst today's generation, and is finally starting to be worn at the right occasions.  

“Today the ascot stands as the accessory which gentlemen wear to distinguish themselves from the rest. It's a very unique look and is building a strong following behind it,” says Samuel Moses, owner of Andrew's Ties Made in Italy's Toronto location, a men's store with franchises all over the world. 

Andrew's Ties is a must-visit store for ascots. As one of the only stores and brands to make and carry handmade, silk ascots, it offers over 30 patterns and colours. The designs of ascots have significantly changed, and now feature bold patterns such as paisley, polka dots, stripes, floral and just about anything. According to Moses, those who are catching onto the traditional necktie are “the younger, trendier crowd who are confident with their fashion sense and looking to stand out, and the more traditional gentleman who has been wearing them for many years.” 

Bowties also became very popular in 2008 through to 2010, especially amongst young trendsetters in their teens and 20s and even women. But now that fashion has put the accessory in the past, it's time to celebrate the ascot and some of fashion's most memorable glory days.  

“A gentleman can never go wrong wearing an ascot when the fabric of it matches the suit,” says Moses. •